Acrylic Nail Enhancements
Acrylic nails form when a liquid monomer and a powder polymer combine through a chemical reaction called polymerization. This reaction is exothermic, meaning it releases heat. If the bead of product on the brush is too wet or too large, the client may feel a burning sensation.
Monomer: EMA vs. MMA
The monomer used in professional nail products is either ethyl methacrylate (EMA) or methyl methacrylate (MMA). EMA is the professional standard. MMA is banned by many state boards and the FDA has issued advisories against its use.
| Property | EMA (Professional Standard) | MMA (Prohibited in Many States) |
|---|---|---|
| Flexibility | Flexible; breaks before natural nail | Rigid; can cause nail avulsion on impact |
| Removal | Dissolves in acetone | Resistant to acetone; requires aggressive filing |
| Odor | Strong but regulated | Extremely strong; linked to respiratory sensitization |
| Legal status | Approved for professional use | Banned by many state boards |
Acrylic Application Steps
- Prep the natural nail: remove shine, dehydrate, and apply primer.
- Apply a nail tip or nail form to extend the length.
- Dip brush into monomer, then touch powder to pick up a bead of acrylic.
- Place bead on nail and smooth into shape before it hardens.
- Allow to self-cure; no lamp needed.
- File and shape once fully hardened.
Primer Types
- Acid primer: Etches the nail surface for maximum adhesion. Highly caustic; must not touch skin.
- Non-acid primer (acid-free): Uses bonding agents without corrosive ingredients. Safer for skin contact.
Gel Nail Systems
Gels are cured (hardened) by UV or LED light. They do not self-cure.
- Hard gels: Cannot be soaked off. Must be filed off. Used for sculpting and overlays.
- Soft gels (soak-off gels, BIAB): Remove in acetone. Includes gel polish.
- Gel polish: A soak-off gel in a polish bottle. Requires UV or LED curing between layers. Gel polish is not the same as hard gel.
Dip Powder (SNS System)
- Apply bonding agent to the nail.
- Apply base coat and dip into colored powder.
- Repeat base coat and dip 2-3 times for thickness.
- Apply activator to harden the powder without a UV lamp.
- File and shape; apply top coat.
No UV or LED lamp is needed. Removal requires soaking in acetone. Double-dipping fingers into a shared powder jar is a sanitation violation. Use a pour or brush-on method to avoid contamination.